Back to previous post: One Simple Reason to Vote for Obama

Go to Making Light's front page.

Forward to next post: Clarion West, crisis and response

Subscribe (via RSS) to this post's comment thread. (What does this mean? Here's a quick introduction.)

July 5, 2008

Cold beef salad with preserved lemons and fresh basil
Posted by Teresa at 05:13 PM * 26 comments

Here’s the setup: While working too fast in the kitchen late last night, put the plastic bag full of little individually-wrapped frozen beef tenderloins on top of the refrigerator. Forget it’s there. Find it this morning, still chilly but definitely defrosted. Cook all the tenderloins before making breakfast. Around lunchtime, contemplate the stack of cold cooked beef in the refrigerator.

5 cold cooked beef tenderloins, about 0.75” thick
1 entire package of mixed yuppie salad greens
a nearly equal quantity of small fresh spinach leaves
a good handful of fresh basil leaves
7 medium tomatoes
6 fat stalks of green onion, chopped
8-9 of those mutant dwarf sweet bell peppers
2/3 C. sun-dried tomatoes snipped into little bits
4 small salty French preserved lemons
olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper

Slice tenderloins in half along their horizontal axis, then cube the resulting half-thickness pieces. Put them in a bowl. Seed your lemons and chop them fine. Chop or snip your sun-dried tomatoes into bits. Snip the fresh basil into thin bits. Put the chopped lemon, sun-dried tomatoes, and basil bits in with the beef, and toss gently. Stet.

Wash your greens, get the excess water off via your preferred method, and put them into a very large bowl. Chop the green onions. Cube the tomatoes. Cut up the mutant dwarf bell peppers. Toss them in with the greens. Snip some more basil leaves and toss those in too, if you feel like it.

Add the beef mixture to the main bowl and toss everything together gently. Dress it with a good olive oil (the cloudy greenish sorts work well with this) and some balsamic vinegar. Salt and pepper to taste. Eat happily.

Before I go any further: no, I have not become a spendthrift! The Fairway in Red Hook sells cut-price whole beef tenderloins. I de-sinew them (that’s the trickiest bit), slice them into individual servings, and wrap and freeze them myself. If they’re not the cheapest meat on the market, they’re also far from the most expensive.

The preserved lemons are from Fairway as well. They import them from France under their own “Campagne St Eugene” label. They’re small, salty, and intensely flavorful. The complete ingredients list is “lemons, water, salt, anti-oxidant F300, citric acid.” If you can’t get French lemons, use Moroccan preserved lemons instead.

I’m recording this one because it turns out there’s something alchemical about the combination of cold beef, preserved lemons, and fresh basil. It’s possible the alchemical effect depends on some of the other ingredients as well, but it’s the beef, lemon, and basil that rise up singing.

Welcome to Making Light's comments section. Moderator: Teresa Nielsen Hayden.

Comments on Cold beef salad with preserved lemons and fresh basil:

#1 ::: Madeleine Robins ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 06:19 PM:

Am suddenly immensely hungry. Wish I could come eat at your house.

#2 ::: Constance Ash ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 06:48 PM:

I'm going to try out that combo. Though it's got to have a different kind of lemon, since I don't do sodium. (Which complicates life considerably, but not doing sodium also improves life considerably, so there I be.)

Love, C.

#3 ::: Fragano Ledgister ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 07:07 PM:

I don't do sodium either. Nor beef in large quantities. Could this be done with either pork or chicken?

#4 ::: Sylvia ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 07:39 PM:

Three years ago I made my own preserved lemons using this recipe on Epicurious. I am lazy: I didn't soak the lemons in advance and most days I forgot to shake the jar. I had to squeeze quite a few extra lemons to make sure there was enough juice to cover everything. It was, perhaps, rather larger a batch than necessary based on the fact that we are still working our way through them.

Occasionally I try store-bought preserved lemons to compare against my own as a sanity check. They look better (mine now have a dull brownish-yellow peel) but general consensus is that mine have a better and stronger flavour. I usually use a quarter of a lemon per person in salad recipes.

If you get a chance and you 'do sodium', I recommend making these yourself.

#5 ::: P J Evans ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 07:42 PM:

(got curious first ...
anti-oxidant F300 seems to be ascorbic acid.)

The salad sounds wonderful (from here in once-more-baking southern CA).

#6 ::: Michael Roberts ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 07:48 PM:

I've been making chicken lately with what I call a no-brainer recipe:

- One three-pound bag frozen chicken breast
- A bunch of canola oil
- One medium onion
- Four cloves garlic
- Salt to taste.

Dump the chicken into a pan with a quarter-inch canola oil; bake until thawed. Slice the onion, halve the garlic, toss it all in, cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces, bake some more.

Total time invested: ten minutes, feeds four hungry no-carb people twice, with a bit for the dog (removed before adding the onions.) The oil is for no-carb calories.

It's less foodie-oriented than your recipe, Teresa, but it sure is nice having chicken ready to eat whenever I want it. This is really good with cauliflower and curry, or with broccoli. We eat a lot of cauliflower and broccoli, and long for the day when we can start eating potatoes again. Or yautía.

#7 ::: grackle ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 07:51 PM:

That sounds wonderful--I like the copy editor-recipe-detailing. You can make preserved lemons yourself and they are vastly better than the most of the commercial ones. Lemons+ lemon juice to cover, with the lemons quartered but not cut through - so that the quartered pieces remain in one whole piece. Put a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves and whatever else strikes your fancy - maybe some garlic, Kosher salt in a glass jar. It takes a few weeks to cure and they are to die for, with a great and sweet perfume. This is from memory but it came from Paula Wolfert's great Moroccan cooking book, Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco.

#8 ::: Jason B ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 08:19 PM:

Most of that recipe sounds amazing. I'll have to try to adapt a veggie version. Tempeh, maybe? It would take a lot--or a serious conversion of amounts.

#9 ::: Pamela Dean ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 08:30 PM:

I just have to thank you for the use of "stet" in the context of a recipe. I can't stop giggling about it, and that is a very good thing.

I, too, am tempted to develop a vegetarian version of this, but was thinking of substituting seitan instead.

P.

#10 ::: Lance Weber ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 08:33 PM:

Fragano @3:: Could this be done with either pork or chicken?
I'm imagining here, but I think salmon, especially grilled, would pull this dish off beautifully if you wanted to substitute out the beef.

Michael Roberts @6::
Sounds like a great base for any chicken recipe! One masterful secret I picked up from a wonderful Indian chef - try marinating chicken with malt vinegar to give it a subtle but great flavor boost. I splash by eye so I'm not sure what the exact amount would be for 3 lbs of chicken, maybe start with 1/3-1/2 cup and bump up from there.

Oh, and the four cloves of garlic: that's per chicken breast, right?? :)

Jason B @8::
For a vegetarian spin, I'm thinking a combination of grilled tempeh cubes and portabello strips might be good. I'd use the tempeh for the texture and the mushroom for the deeper meat approximate flavor.

#11 ::: John Houghton ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 09:52 PM:

Lance Weber (10):
Oh, and the four cloves of garlic: that's per chicken breast, right?? :)

Garlic is such a subtle spice, that's why you have to use so much of it.

(Pam: is that David's line, yours, or some other person's entirely?)

#12 ::: Emma ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 09:57 PM:

This must be the day for "what the heck do I do with that?" With me, it was three leftover roasted ears of corn and two crabcakes found in the back of the fridge. Ended up making a sort of corn and crab stew with onions, garlic, cherry tomatoes, multicolored peppers (thus cleaning out the leftover veggie bin), and a splash of sherry. Quite tasty actually, more than I deserved with the improvisational approach.

#13 ::: Michael Roberts ::: (view all by) ::: July 05, 2008, 10:26 PM:

Lance - marinating obviates the ease-of-use mandate inherent in our lifestyle, unfortunately. We do manage to soak legumes, but soaking the chicken? The central point of my method is "thaw in the oven!" Very important.

Just had this chicken now, along with provolone and muenster, and almond-flour cheese bread. Tasty!

#14 ::: Tania ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 01:06 AM:

Yum. Sounds lovely, and is making me crave larb or yum nuer/nua (however your local Thai friends transliterate the word for beef).

Thanks for sharing. And reminding me that I need to try preserving lemons again. My last two times have not turned out so well. But I'm going to keep on trying.

#15 ::: James D. Macdonald ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 01:18 AM:

Watch out. Next thing you know this'll turn up as a Cindy McCain Recipe.

#16 ::: Michael Bloom ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 08:17 AM:

There's a Cambodian dish called Loc Lac that's close to this, beef in a basil and lime sauce. It's extremely delicious.

#17 ::: P J Evans ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 10:55 AM:

I seem to recall that Claudia Roden has a recipe for preserved/pickled lemons that involves freezing lemon wedges first, making it faster and easier. It should be in A Book of Middle Eastern Food.

#18 ::: Carol ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 11:47 AM:

Preserved lemons are easy to do, and if you forget to move them around every day during the curing process, it doesn't make much difference. Obviously they cure a little more evenly if you do.

My favorite version uses bay leaves and cardamom layered in with the lemons and salt.

#19 ::: Syd ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 02:32 PM:

Question: Are the sun-dried tomatoes the "dry" sort (e.g., sold in cellophane-ish bags) or the kind in jars packed with olive oil? If the latter, might it be beneficial to the salad to use some of the sun-dried tomato oil with the olive oil in the dressing?

I'm too hungry now. Which is what I get for checking the Fluorosphere almost as soon as I get up, instead of hitting the kitchen first...

#20 ::: meteorplum ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 05:25 PM:

@Teresa: Fresh, uncooked tomatoes? Is the scare over or do you have a trustworthy source?

It also occurred to me (while listening to the tomato story on The NewsHour) that back in the home country, my people have used night soil to fertilize their crops for possibly thousands of years. Why were e. coli and the like not regular scourges? Then I realized that Chinese salads were invented in California around the time of Jimmy Carter. Stir frying for the win! Not that it won't keep me from trying out the recipe myself. Sounds yummy.

#21 ::: Pamela Dean ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 05:26 PM:

John Houghton at #11 -- You'll have gotten the remark about garlic's being a subtle spice from David, certainly. He and Steve Brust had a lot of remarks about garlic and onion in common in the years all of us lived in Minneapolis, but I think that one is David's.

Unless the garlic is to be consumed raw, I always double or triple the amount called for in a recipe. I go through four heads of garlic a week, when I'm cooking. Yum.

P.

#22 ::: Constance Ash ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 05:41 PM:

I am laughing because all of us want to change the ingredients, starting with me. :) Classic in terms of providing a recipe, then users don't follow it, and wonder why their end result isn't the same.

Fragano -- It isn't very much beef, so once in a while you can do it. That's one reason this receipe is so appealing. I happen to have beef filet in the freezer.

Love, C.

#23 ::: Marilee ::: (view all by) ::: July 06, 2008, 08:07 PM:

meteorplum, #20, many sources of tomatoes have been declared safe and the stores are buying from those sources.

#24 ::: Lance Weber ::: (view all by) ::: July 07, 2008, 12:17 PM:

I made this recipe last night and it was awesome, this is definitely a keeper Teresa!

I did end up tweaking it slightly, by substituting marinated grilled chicken for the beef, fresh limes for the preserved lemon, cilantro for the basil, jalapeno for the bell peppers, grilled sweet corn for the sun-dried tomato, and a chipotle ranch dressing for the balsamic vinegar, but I think the tastes and textures must be pretty close to the your original. I'd definitely make it again!

(Inspired by Constance :)

#25 ::: Michael Roberts ::: (view all by) ::: July 07, 2008, 01:47 PM:

Re garlic: you know in that scene in _Last Man Standing_ (yeah, OK, but I liked it), where Bruce Willis eats with the Italian mob, and the guy says, "What? You don't like my mother's cooking!?", and Bruce Willis says, "(coff) Yeah, I like garlic."? I start getting hungry when I think of that scene. 'Cause I really like garlic.

When I made my chicken yesterday, just because garlic is so subtle, I put in five cloves.

I had an acquaintance back in my contract days at Eli Lilly, young guy fresh out of college. He wanted to cook spaghetti, and got a recipe, but didn't know what a "clove" of garlic was. Assuming it meant the purchased unit (and hey, why not?) he made some ... really spicy spaghetti.

#26 ::: Constance Ash ::: (view all by) ::: July 07, 2008, 02:37 PM:

#24 ::: Lance Weber

O, you made me laugh! Thank you. I've gotten a wee bit depressed over the events of this last weekend, which included bad news on several fronts simultaneously.

Your version sounds delicious too.

Love, C.

Welcome to Making Light's comment section. Moderator: Teresa Nielsen Hayden.

Comments containing more than seven URLs will be held for approval.

If you want to comment on a thread that's been closed, please post to the most recent "Open Thread" discussion.

You can subscribe (via RSS) to this particular comment thread. (If this option is baffling, here's a quick introduction.)

Post a comment.
(Real e-mail addresses and URLs only, please.)

HTML Tags:
<strong>Strong</strong> = Strong
<em>Emphasized</em> = Emphasized
<a href="http://www.url.com">Linked text</a> = Linked text

Spelling reference:
Tolkien. Minuscule. Gandhi. Millennium. Delany. Embarrassment. Publishers Weekly. Occurrence. Asimov. Weird. Connoisseur. Accommodate. Hierarchy. Deity. Etiquette. Pharaoh. Teresa. Its. Macdonald. Nielsen Hayden. It's. Fluorosphere. Barack. More here.















(You must preview before posting.)

Dire legal notice
Making Light copyright 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 by Patrick & Teresa Nielsen Hayden. All rights reserved.